In Search of the Perfect Summer Wine

The dog days of summer have rolled into town causing everyone to listlessly look for a cure for the heat. For a wine lover, the search has begun for a crisp, cool glass of dry white wine. Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio may quickly come to mind, but if you are in the mood to try something different, look for a Gruner Veltliner. Afterall, how can you resist something with the nickname "Gru-Vee?"

Gruner Veltliner finds its native home within the Wachau Valley in Southern Austria. The Wachau dramatically meanders alongside the Danube River with stunning scenery contrasting terraced hillsides against the often tumultuous river. My husband and I lived not too far away from this area and I fondly remember a trip to the valley two weeks before our first son was born. It was during the apricot festival and celebrations were aplenty. One night while driving back to our hotel with the car windows open, we were serenaded by energetic music from a local festival and then as if on cue, golden fireworks shot up into the air almost creating an archway over the quaint two lane road running alongside the river. We pulled off somewhat ironically into an apricot orchard and watched the beautiful sight feeling as though we were experiencing something magical. (My husband probably more vividly remembers the Ferrari festival that wound its way down the same road in a ribbon of red, but to each his or her own!)

It is in this setting of cobblestone streets and ancient castles that you will arguably find some of the best Gruner Veltliners. Long disregarded as unimportant table wines often served in local taverns with a gespritz of seltzer water, the varietal has seen a resurgence of popularity more than likely due to its particularly food friendly characteristics. Crisp citrus and apple flavors are offset by minerality imparted from the limestone soils. Refreshing, uncomplicated and light bodied, these wines are amongst my favorite summertime wines because they are versatile and user friendly. They are naturals with fried foods like calamari or schnitzel, but are also lovely in instances where you want to highlight the pureness of great ingredients like a summer salad.

The labels can be a bit intimidating so I will attempt to dispel some of the mystery so you may go forth more confidently in search of the perfect bottle.

Qualitatswein: Most of the wine you will see will be from this category. It basically is an indication of quality as the wine must come from a single wine district.

Federspiel: This term originates from the old local tradition of falconry. Essentially the same as a Kabinett wine, this is an indication that it is a dry wine with an alcohol level between 11.5 and 12.5%.


Smaragd: These are often some of the finest Austrian wines, with a minimum alcohol level of 12.5%. The term originates from the emerald colored lizard that lives within the vineyards.

If you are looking for a great glass of Gruner Veltliner to enjoy alongside calamari and schnitzel, we would love to see you at The Flying Horse. In fact, with the recent rains, you may very well be able to imagine the Danube as you sit on the patio listening to the Galena River rumble by! Guten Appetit!