Telmo Rodriguez and His Off-The-Beaten Path Wines

If I take a step back and look as objectively as a person really can at their own reflection in the mirror, I think my passion has become finding and sharing wines from off the beaten path regions that are approachable in terms of pricing, available within the marketplace, and absolutely delicious either with or without food. Telmo Rodriguez and his diverse portfolios of wines seems to fit the bill perfectly for my interests and hopefully yours too. Telmo fits the stereotype of my image of a Spaniard (minus a guitar or matador outfit obviously)......full of energy and passion for sharing the wonders of his Native Spain with a soulful interest in sharing something of great quality with a focus on everyday enjoyment. He is a hands-on master winemaker and a graduate of the University of Bordeaux's prestigious oenology school. He is most known, however, as a pioneer winemaker advocating native varietals that are bio dynamically farmed and making world-class wines from lesser known regions without wide recognition. Al-Muvedre is the perfect example of both.

This wine is from Alicante, a beautiful Mediterranean coastal town located in Central Spain's Valencia region in the Costa Blanca. Sprawling promenades made of marble line the coast with palm trees and an incredible diversity of people. The Castle of Santa Barbara is perched high above the city offering spectacular views if you can find the sneaky entrance off the fast-paced highway (we missed the turn at least five times evoking a certain cartoon-like quality to our adventure.) The region receives little rainfall, has hot summers and mild winters leading to vineyards filled with grapes with very concentrated flavors.

Al Muvedre is made from 100% Monastrell, the local clone of Mourvedre. Monastrell wines are incredibly dark in color (almost opaque) smooth textured and offer complexity as the inherent spiciness is balanced by fresh, ripe berry flavors and minerality. I poured this wine for a few of my relatives who drink almost exclusively French wine, and they were shocked by the quality of this modestly priced wine...not a drop left in the bottle!

We are pairing this wine with a beautiful tapas-style course focused on mushrooms. We took the traditional stuffed mushroom and offered a twist by using a filling of ground pork sauteed with pine nuts lightly accented with brandy. Across the plate will be it's inside out cousin featuring puff pastry stuffed with mushrooms and Serrano ham with a cava-cream sauce. The youthful characteristics and soft fruits of this wine marry well with the earthy mushrooms, buttery pastry, and texture of the subtle pine nuts of this dish.

Our big night is tomorrow and I will follow-up with write-ups on Ribera del Duero, Priorat and Sherry with tidbits on how the wines were received at the dinner! Wishing fans of Valentine's Day a weekend filled with romance and for those that are not a weekend filled with newly found Spanish wines!

Lovely Rioja

After phylloxera devastated French vineyards in 1868, many French growers migrated into the Rioja region of Spain, recognizing the potential of the chalky soils. The advanced wine-making techniques that they brought with them combined with the increased exports of Spanish wine throughout Europe due to the shortages of the fabled French vineyards, brought almost instant recognition to the potential of Spanish wines.

Rioja is one of only two Spanish wine regions that carry the D.O.C. (Denominacion de Origen Califcada) status indicating the highest quality wines. It has long been considered Spain’s most prestigious wine region, with notables such as Ernest Hemingway withstanding the arduous journey through the Cantabrian mountains just to sample the local wines. It runs 75 miles along both banks of the Ebro river in the remote interior of Northern Spain with three sub-regions: Rioja Alta, Rioja Baja and Rioja Alavesa. Although the majority of wines exported from these areas are red wines made from the tempranillo grape, many outstanding, versatile whites are also produced. I chose the Bodegas Ostatu Rioja Blanco paired with baked scallops with Vidalia onions and Serrano ham for this weekend's dinner because I thought it would be fun to try something a little more off the beaten path. But rest assured, I am not looking for something different just for the sake of being different...everytime I have poured this wine at my house, everyone is looking for another bottle!

Bodegas Ostatu is a true family run winery with all of their vineyards planted, pruned and taken care of by the family ensuring quality. They practice sustainable management within their vineyards thus producing very low yields from the highest quality grapes. The grapes for this wine come from the highest and oldest vineyards within the estate located in the Rioja Alavesa area, which is a bit cooler than the others because it is located further northwest and at a higher altitude. This is perfect for producing grapes that lead to clean, crisp white wines.

Viura, which is known as Macabeo in other Spanish regions including those that produce their famous cavas, produces wines with wonderful, full aromas, mild fruit flavors and good acidity. They are a perfect match for the cuisine of the area which utilizes straight-forward cooking techniques and fresh, high-quality ingredients.

Until tomorrow....

Txakoli: Spain's Favorite Tapas Wine

I thought I would take the opportunity to tease the taste-buds of those attending our upcoming Spanish wine dinner and perhaps tempt those who have not made plans for the weekend to join us! My previous post talked about the culture and cuisine of Spain, so now let’s talk about one of the pairings we have put together: Ameztoi Getariako Txakolina with shrimp and Manchego cheese croquettes.

I think it is safe to say that most of us hesitate to try new wines from the old-world because let’s be honest: 1. It is hard to know what is going to be in the bottle without what sometimes feels like an Oxford education and 2. They are often pretty darn hard to say leading to what I lovingly refer to as “pointy-talky,” which is okay in a rustic shop buying one-of-a-kind trinkets, but perhaps not so nice in a restaurant with your date witnessing your stuttering charade. So let's get Txakoli 101 out of the way so you can confidently enjoy a bottle of this wonderful wine anytime.



Ameztoi is the producer of this wine. The winery owns 20 hectares (or roughly 50 acres for us Midwesterners) in the best of locations with a view of the town of San Sebastian and the Atlantic Ocean from the vineyards. It is often referred to as one of the top producers of Txakoli with a seventh generation winemaker, Ignacio Ameztoi, carrying on the family traditions.

Getariako Txakolina is the name of the D.O. (Denominacion de Origen,) which is part of a regulatory classification system denoting the highest quality wines within defined regions. These wines not only need to be of superior quality, but also typify the specific characteristics of region. Admittedly it takes a bit of time to learn the individual D.O.s throughout the various countries of the old-world, but it is well worth your time as you now can be sure that you will know precisely what you are buying. On the contrary, can you ever be completely sure what you will taste when you open a new-world Cabernet?



Getaria is located in the Basque region of Northeastern Spain near it’s border with France. The vineyards are located near the coast where they are protected from the spring frost and from the summer heat. The slopes are often very steeply terraced and the region receives the highest rainfall of all the Spanish wine regions.





Txakoli (CHA-koh-lee) is produced from the native grapes Hondarrabi Zuri (white) and Hondarrabi Beltza (red). The wine has a slight fizz similar to Italian frizzante wines, is low in alcohol, and has great acidity that is balanced by minerality. According to Anthony Bourdain of t.v.’s “No Reservations,” it is the tapas wine. In Basque eateries it is served fully chilled in tumblers and is often poured from great heights without missing a drop. I openly admit I tried this at home and failed quite miserably.

It is hard to imagine a more wonderful pairing than fresh seafood and cold white wine. The bracing acidity and fizzy bubbles of the Txakoli will cut right though the breading and cheese of the croquette while bringing out the slightly sweet taste of the shrimp. I am a big fan of simple, fresh wines that work effortlessly well with food and this one in my opinion is a must try!

Txakoli 101 complete. Next stop Rioja.

Spanish Cuisine and Wine

Our upcoming Spanish Wine dinner over Valentine’s Day weekend has finally inspired me to sit back down in front of the computer and write another post.

I have very fond memories of Spain. My husband and I went on holiday 6 years ago starting in Malaga in the Costa del Sol and wound our way up through Andalucía to Alicante and eventually on to Madrid on a self-guided driving tour through the back-roads of the region. We traveled 600 miles moving through tiny towns on an admittedly comedic navigational journey often with only our tiny guidebook map. Needless to say there was lots of last minute finger pointing and excited exclamations of “turn NOW!”

We stayed in coastal towns and although we were not focused on sampling the local wines as I was waddling with the expected arrival of our first child, the trip did leave a lasting impression with regards to the local cultures and cuisine of Southern Spain. First and foremost, the people we encountered were kind, welcoming and extremely friendly moving through their days with an effortless sense of style and seeming to savor every moment that passed. Their cuisine focused on fresh ingredients native to the area often with uncomplicated preparations celebrating one of my new favorite ideas: “the brilliance of simplicity.”

I have had the opportunity now to taste many Spanish wines and have become a true fan. There is an attention to detail and unpretentious desire to communicate the environmental qualities of the regions and the grapes native to that specific place that make these wines irresistible. Delicious, food-friendly, and elegant are words that often come to my mind when tasting Spanish wines.

It was this combination of excellent wines, simple yet delicious food perfect for pairing, and the undeniable passion of the Spanish people that led me to create the Valentine's Wine Dinner. Check back in the coming days to read more about the regional cuisines we will be serving and the wines that will be paired together to create a meal that hopefully will leave you celebrating “the brilliance of simplicity” too.

Here is a link to the menu to tempt you! http://theflyinghorse.com/uploaded/Flying_Horse_Spanish_Wine_Dinner_Menu.pdf

In Search of the Perfect Summer Wine

The dog days of summer have rolled into town causing everyone to listlessly look for a cure for the heat. For a wine lover, the search has begun for a crisp, cool glass of dry white wine. Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio may quickly come to mind, but if you are in the mood to try something different, look for a Gruner Veltliner. Afterall, how can you resist something with the nickname "Gru-Vee?"

Gruner Veltliner finds its native home within the Wachau Valley in Southern Austria. The Wachau dramatically meanders alongside the Danube River with stunning scenery contrasting terraced hillsides against the often tumultuous river. My husband and I lived not too far away from this area and I fondly remember a trip to the valley two weeks before our first son was born. It was during the apricot festival and celebrations were aplenty. One night while driving back to our hotel with the car windows open, we were serenaded by energetic music from a local festival and then as if on cue, golden fireworks shot up into the air almost creating an archway over the quaint two lane road running alongside the river. We pulled off somewhat ironically into an apricot orchard and watched the beautiful sight feeling as though we were experiencing something magical. (My husband probably more vividly remembers the Ferrari festival that wound its way down the same road in a ribbon of red, but to each his or her own!)

It is in this setting of cobblestone streets and ancient castles that you will arguably find some of the best Gruner Veltliners. Long disregarded as unimportant table wines often served in local taverns with a gespritz of seltzer water, the varietal has seen a resurgence of popularity more than likely due to its particularly food friendly characteristics. Crisp citrus and apple flavors are offset by minerality imparted from the limestone soils. Refreshing, uncomplicated and light bodied, these wines are amongst my favorite summertime wines because they are versatile and user friendly. They are naturals with fried foods like calamari or schnitzel, but are also lovely in instances where you want to highlight the pureness of great ingredients like a summer salad.

The labels can be a bit intimidating so I will attempt to dispel some of the mystery so you may go forth more confidently in search of the perfect bottle.

Qualitatswein: Most of the wine you will see will be from this category. It basically is an indication of quality as the wine must come from a single wine district.

Federspiel: This term originates from the old local tradition of falconry. Essentially the same as a Kabinett wine, this is an indication that it is a dry wine with an alcohol level between 11.5 and 12.5%.


Smaragd: These are often some of the finest Austrian wines, with a minimum alcohol level of 12.5%. The term originates from the emerald colored lizard that lives within the vineyards.

If you are looking for a great glass of Gruner Veltliner to enjoy alongside calamari and schnitzel, we would love to see you at The Flying Horse. In fact, with the recent rains, you may very well be able to imagine the Danube as you sit on the patio listening to the Galena River rumble by! Guten Appetit!

200 Years of Fanciful Wine Reviews

The summer is winding down and as luck would have it I have finally found my lazy-day page-turner. The Widow Clicquot by Tilar J. Mazzeo tells the tale of Barbe-Nicole Clicquot Ponsardin, the woman who transformed the world of bubbly. The story of her uncommon entrepreneurial drive, 19th century political intrigue, French social drama, and the creation of the champagne we love today is perfectly captured with her many daring episodes. A little something for everyone in my humble opinion.

One caption in particular, however, inspired me to sit down at the computer again and write a post. Barbe-Nicole’s most trusted salesman Louis Bohne writes home to France from Russia ecstatic about their daring first success:

“Of all the fine wines that have teased northern heads, none compare to Madame Clicquot’s 1811 cuvee. Delicious to taste, it is an assassin, and anyone who wants to make its acquaintance will become well attached to his chair, because after paying respects to a bottle, he will be looking for crumbs under the table.”

Apparently fanciful wine reviews have been around a lot longer than Wine Spectator! They leave you feeling excited, but you are not exactly sure why. So what is a wine lover to do? Here is my advice:

First, learn what you like. A bit of groaning and sighing from the small reading gallery is in order as I twist your arm and ask that you taste many delicious wines! There are hundreds of wine styles now available to you so stretch yourself and you may very well find a new favorite. It seems obvious, but remember you are entitled to not only like, but also dislike wines that you taste even if they have received rave reviews. Even if the wine is a flop, you learned something and some of the funniest wine memories I have are of my husband and I creating terminology for wines we did not like. (“Smells like B.O.” and “Tastes like monkey” are some of the funniest, but I digress.)

Second, learn to translate the styles of wine you enjoy to the words used in wine reviews and tasting notes. For the most part, there is standard language laced between the poetic ramblings of tasters that will guide you to the styles you enjoy. Decide whether you prefer a clean, delicate wine with a hint of oak or a big, bold, toasty one. Pick up a copy of Andrea Immer Robinson’s Great Wine Made Simple, Straight Talk from a Master Sommelier if you are interested in a bit of structure for this journey.

And last, remember at the end of the day winemaking is a business. We all learned at a young age that the best do not always take the spotlight from the well funded or socially important. Therefore, finding a wine merchant that you trust is of the utmost importance. This merchant should not only be knowledgeable, but should take pride in providing you with the perfect bottle asking you about the occasion, your style preference AND budget. We have all shopped at places on the main drag with silly names and expensive interiors whose main goal is to break your wallet. Their goal is more about pampering your ego than providing you with a great wine. You generally end up with something you paid too much for that you might very well not enjoy.

While there are lots of great stores around Chicago, I have been pleasantly surprised by the selection at Family Liquor in East Dubuque, especially when Tim is available to lend his expertise. And as always, The Flying Horse would be more than happy to help put together a collection of wines to either begin your journey or to expand on a happy voyage in process! Till next time, Cheers!

Why on Earth does Someone Choose to Become a Sommelier?

Here is the question I am going to try and answer in this first post: “Why on earth does someone decide to seriously pursue a passion for wine?” Let me dispel the myth that it pertains to one's eternal quest to be the biggest geek in the room right away!

I should start off by openly admitting that one year ago I was a wine drinker who happily lived within the safe boundaries of the Fearsome Foursome–Cabernet, Shiraz, Chardonnay, and Pinot Grigio. My Black Swan hit home when my husband bought a restaurant and I took on what seemed like the easy job (two kids under 3 at home makes you look for the path of least resistance on almost anything): creating the wine list. I thought I would buy a couple of books, build an Excel spreadsheet, and voila I would scoot by in record time.

Not so. The more I read, the more I realized I didn’t know. I am became ensconced in all things wine and realized how much fun it was to unlock their mysteries. In one subject all of the interests I had built throughout my life, but for one reason or another had never fully committed to, came colliding together: deductive reasoning, environmental stewardship, history, geography, traveling, cuisine, and art. I was having fun.

I also realized that wine should not be intimidating. Knowing a few basic facts can truly open the doors to more confident searches of off the beaten path geographies and grape varietals found on the road less traveled. I hope to share some of these tidbits with you through interesting stories, funny asides and above all down-to-earth information.

Cheers! See you next time.