Thursday, August 5, 2010

200 Years of Fanciful Wine Reviews

The summer is winding down and as luck would have it I have finally found my lazy-day page-turner. The Widow Clicquot by Tilar J. Mazzeo tells the tale of Barbe-Nicole Clicquot Ponsardin, the woman who transformed the world of bubbly. The story of her uncommon entrepreneurial drive, 19th century political intrigue, French social drama, and the creation of the champagne we love today is perfectly captured with her many daring episodes. A little something for everyone in my humble opinion.

One caption in particular, however, inspired me to sit down at the computer again and write a post. Barbe-Nicole’s most trusted salesman Louis Bohne writes home to France from Russia ecstatic about their daring first success:

“Of all the fine wines that have teased northern heads, none compare to Madame Clicquot’s 1811 cuvee. Delicious to taste, it is an assassin, and anyone who wants to make its acquaintance will become well attached to his chair, because after paying respects to a bottle, he will be looking for crumbs under the table.”

Apparently fanciful wine reviews have been around a lot longer than Wine Spectator! They leave you feeling excited, but you are not exactly sure why. So what is a wine lover to do? Here is my advice:

First, learn what you like. A bit of groaning and sighing from the small reading gallery is in order as I twist your arm and ask that you taste many delicious wines! There are hundreds of wine styles now available to you so stretch yourself and you may very well find a new favorite. It seems obvious, but remember you are entitled to not only like, but also dislike wines that you taste even if they have received rave reviews. Even if the wine is a flop, you learned something and some of the funniest wine memories I have are of my husband and I creating terminology for wines we did not like. (“Smells like B.O.” and “Tastes like monkey” are some of the funniest, but I digress.)

Second, learn to translate the styles of wine you enjoy to the words used in wine reviews and tasting notes. For the most part, there is standard language laced between the poetic ramblings of tasters that will guide you to the styles you enjoy. Decide whether you prefer a clean, delicate wine with a hint of oak or a big, bold, toasty one. Pick up a copy of Andrea Immer Robinson’s Great Wine Made Simple, Straight Talk from a Master Sommelier if you are interested in a bit of structure for this journey.

And last, remember at the end of the day winemaking is a business. We all learned at a young age that the best do not always take the spotlight from the well funded or socially important. Therefore, finding a wine merchant that you trust is of the utmost importance. This merchant should not only be knowledgeable, but should take pride in providing you with the perfect bottle asking you about the occasion, your style preference AND budget. We have all shopped at places on the main drag with silly names and expensive interiors whose main goal is to break your wallet. Their goal is more about pampering your ego than providing you with a great wine. You generally end up with something you paid too much for that you might very well not enjoy.

While there are lots of great stores around Chicago, I have been pleasantly surprised by the selection at Family Liquor in East Dubuque, especially when Tim is available to lend his expertise. And as always, The Flying Horse would be more than happy to help put together a collection of wines to either begin your journey or to expand on a happy voyage in process! Till next time, Cheers!

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