In Search of the Perfect Summer Wine

The dog days of summer have rolled into town causing everyone to listlessly look for a cure for the heat. For a wine lover, the search has begun for a crisp, cool glass of dry white wine. Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio may quickly come to mind, but if you are in the mood to try something different, look for a Gruner Veltliner. Afterall, how can you resist something with the nickname "Gru-Vee?"

Gruner Veltliner finds its native home within the Wachau Valley in Southern Austria. The Wachau dramatically meanders alongside the Danube River with stunning scenery contrasting terraced hillsides against the often tumultuous river. My husband and I lived not too far away from this area and I fondly remember a trip to the valley two weeks before our first son was born. It was during the apricot festival and celebrations were aplenty. One night while driving back to our hotel with the car windows open, we were serenaded by energetic music from a local festival and then as if on cue, golden fireworks shot up into the air almost creating an archway over the quaint two lane road running alongside the river. We pulled off somewhat ironically into an apricot orchard and watched the beautiful sight feeling as though we were experiencing something magical. (My husband probably more vividly remembers the Ferrari festival that wound its way down the same road in a ribbon of red, but to each his or her own!)

It is in this setting of cobblestone streets and ancient castles that you will arguably find some of the best Gruner Veltliners. Long disregarded as unimportant table wines often served in local taverns with a gespritz of seltzer water, the varietal has seen a resurgence of popularity more than likely due to its particularly food friendly characteristics. Crisp citrus and apple flavors are offset by minerality imparted from the limestone soils. Refreshing, uncomplicated and light bodied, these wines are amongst my favorite summertime wines because they are versatile and user friendly. They are naturals with fried foods like calamari or schnitzel, but are also lovely in instances where you want to highlight the pureness of great ingredients like a summer salad.

The labels can be a bit intimidating so I will attempt to dispel some of the mystery so you may go forth more confidently in search of the perfect bottle.

Qualitatswein: Most of the wine you will see will be from this category. It basically is an indication of quality as the wine must come from a single wine district.

Federspiel: This term originates from the old local tradition of falconry. Essentially the same as a Kabinett wine, this is an indication that it is a dry wine with an alcohol level between 11.5 and 12.5%.


Smaragd: These are often some of the finest Austrian wines, with a minimum alcohol level of 12.5%. The term originates from the emerald colored lizard that lives within the vineyards.

If you are looking for a great glass of Gruner Veltliner to enjoy alongside calamari and schnitzel, we would love to see you at The Flying Horse. In fact, with the recent rains, you may very well be able to imagine the Danube as you sit on the patio listening to the Galena River rumble by! Guten Appetit!

200 Years of Fanciful Wine Reviews

The summer is winding down and as luck would have it I have finally found my lazy-day page-turner. The Widow Clicquot by Tilar J. Mazzeo tells the tale of Barbe-Nicole Clicquot Ponsardin, the woman who transformed the world of bubbly. The story of her uncommon entrepreneurial drive, 19th century political intrigue, French social drama, and the creation of the champagne we love today is perfectly captured with her many daring episodes. A little something for everyone in my humble opinion.

One caption in particular, however, inspired me to sit down at the computer again and write a post. Barbe-Nicole’s most trusted salesman Louis Bohne writes home to France from Russia ecstatic about their daring first success:

“Of all the fine wines that have teased northern heads, none compare to Madame Clicquot’s 1811 cuvee. Delicious to taste, it is an assassin, and anyone who wants to make its acquaintance will become well attached to his chair, because after paying respects to a bottle, he will be looking for crumbs under the table.”

Apparently fanciful wine reviews have been around a lot longer than Wine Spectator! They leave you feeling excited, but you are not exactly sure why. So what is a wine lover to do? Here is my advice:

First, learn what you like. A bit of groaning and sighing from the small reading gallery is in order as I twist your arm and ask that you taste many delicious wines! There are hundreds of wine styles now available to you so stretch yourself and you may very well find a new favorite. It seems obvious, but remember you are entitled to not only like, but also dislike wines that you taste even if they have received rave reviews. Even if the wine is a flop, you learned something and some of the funniest wine memories I have are of my husband and I creating terminology for wines we did not like. (“Smells like B.O.” and “Tastes like monkey” are some of the funniest, but I digress.)

Second, learn to translate the styles of wine you enjoy to the words used in wine reviews and tasting notes. For the most part, there is standard language laced between the poetic ramblings of tasters that will guide you to the styles you enjoy. Decide whether you prefer a clean, delicate wine with a hint of oak or a big, bold, toasty one. Pick up a copy of Andrea Immer Robinson’s Great Wine Made Simple, Straight Talk from a Master Sommelier if you are interested in a bit of structure for this journey.

And last, remember at the end of the day winemaking is a business. We all learned at a young age that the best do not always take the spotlight from the well funded or socially important. Therefore, finding a wine merchant that you trust is of the utmost importance. This merchant should not only be knowledgeable, but should take pride in providing you with the perfect bottle asking you about the occasion, your style preference AND budget. We have all shopped at places on the main drag with silly names and expensive interiors whose main goal is to break your wallet. Their goal is more about pampering your ego than providing you with a great wine. You generally end up with something you paid too much for that you might very well not enjoy.

While there are lots of great stores around Chicago, I have been pleasantly surprised by the selection at Family Liquor in East Dubuque, especially when Tim is available to lend his expertise. And as always, The Flying Horse would be more than happy to help put together a collection of wines to either begin your journey or to expand on a happy voyage in process! Till next time, Cheers!

Why on Earth does Someone Choose to Become a Sommelier?

Here is the question I am going to try and answer in this first post: “Why on earth does someone decide to seriously pursue a passion for wine?” Let me dispel the myth that it pertains to one's eternal quest to be the biggest geek in the room right away!

I should start off by openly admitting that one year ago I was a wine drinker who happily lived within the safe boundaries of the Fearsome Foursome–Cabernet, Shiraz, Chardonnay, and Pinot Grigio. My Black Swan hit home when my husband bought a restaurant and I took on what seemed like the easy job (two kids under 3 at home makes you look for the path of least resistance on almost anything): creating the wine list. I thought I would buy a couple of books, build an Excel spreadsheet, and voila I would scoot by in record time.

Not so. The more I read, the more I realized I didn’t know. I am became ensconced in all things wine and realized how much fun it was to unlock their mysteries. In one subject all of the interests I had built throughout my life, but for one reason or another had never fully committed to, came colliding together: deductive reasoning, environmental stewardship, history, geography, traveling, cuisine, and art. I was having fun.

I also realized that wine should not be intimidating. Knowing a few basic facts can truly open the doors to more confident searches of off the beaten path geographies and grape varietals found on the road less traveled. I hope to share some of these tidbits with you through interesting stories, funny asides and above all down-to-earth information.

Cheers! See you next time.